Suit Fabrics (and Which One’s Right for You)

The Types of Suit Fabrics (and Which One’s Right for You)

A suit is not just a suit. There are so many factors that go into finding the right suit and making sure it’s tailored to fit your body shape perfectly. This menswear staple is the most complicated clothing purchase you will make, but also the most rewarding: A perfectly fitted suit (in every aspect — fabric, color, and style) can do wonders for your confidence both in and out of the office, and believe it or not, looking good can help earn you more respect from your co-workers. Looking well-put together (not just donning professional attire) is underrated in the workplace, so it’s time to up the ante and begin to think about your suits on a deeper level. It all starts with knowing the different suit fabrics and when the appropriate time to wear them is; for instance, it’s harder to wear a heavy wool suit in a heatwave during the middle of summer.

Just remember when considering what suit to buy, the fabric you choose plays a pivotal role in the way you wear your suit, so it’s important to consider getting a suit made of high-quality fabric, as it can make or break the way it looks on you. Before walking into a store to purchase a suit, here is your Cheat Sheet guide to choosing the suit fabric that is right for you.

Before you choose a suit, consider the weight of the fabric
FashionBeans summarizes typical fabric weights and when the ideal time to wear them is.

7 ounces to 9 ounces: This is the lightest fabric weight you can find and is ideal to look for during the warmer months of the year.

9.5 ounces to 11 ounces: This, of course, would be the second lightest fabric weight, and is best for transitional seasons when it’s not too hot and not too cold (late summer-early fall, and spring-early summer).

11 ounces to 12 ounces: Middle weight. This is the “just right” fabric weight that is perfect to wear for the majority of the year. This is the ideal fabric weight to start with if you’re building a formal suit wardrobe from scratch.

12 ounces to 13 ounces: This is the second heaviest fabric weight. It’s a great option for most of the year, but for summer it’s completely out of the question.

14 ounces to 19 ounces: This is the heaviest suit fabric you can find. This weight fabric is not the most popular, but is easy to tailor and is ideal to wear on a cold fall and/or winter day.

Wool

This is the most popular suit fabric choice due to its versatility and refined aesthetic. Wool is a fantastic choice as it breathes well, and can be worn in both slightly hot and cooler temperatures. It is a softer fabric and tends to be wrinkle free. The two main wool yarns produce worsted (which is a fine smooth yarn spun from combed long-staple wool) in which the fibers are combined before spinning, and woolen (plain wool) where they are not. These two yarns can be woven in a number of ways to produce flannel, tweed, cashmere, and merino — to name a few.

In reference to cashmere or cashmere blend suits, not only is it considered a luxury item, but it can sometimes give off an unwanted sheen to a suit. You’re probably going to want to purchase a suit with more of a matte finish. If you do desire a cashmere suit, buy one for a special occasion, or plan to wear it somewhere other than work. It may look like a little too much.

Super wool

Suit fabrics are sometimes classified as Super 100s, 140s, 160s and so on. The numbers refer to the number of times that the worsted wool has been twisted as it was being made. As a general rule, the higher the number, the finer and lighter the cloth will be, as well as the more expensive it’s likely to be. The more lightweight it is (the higher the number), the better the suit is for the warmer months of the year. The only drawback to super wools is that they don’t keep their shape very well and require extra care, and they won’t last very long if worn regularly. FashionBeans suggests that you purchase a lighter suit for a special occasion rather than use it as a daily option for businesswear.

Cotton

D’Marge says that cotton is the second most popular suit fabric, as it breathes very well and is soft. However, it tends to crease very easily. Cotton suits are a cheaper option, best to wear during the transitional and warmer months of the year, and are great for all body types. Look for heavy cotton or wool/cotton blend as it allows the suit to retain its silhouette better. It’s best to wear a cotton suit if you’re going to a semi-formal event as it’s just a bit more on the casual side.

Polyester

Polyester is made of synthetic materials that are of lower quality fabric. Polyester suits usually come blended with another fiber, such as wool, in order to keep the price of it low.

On the plus size, AskMen says that if you’re strapped for cash, a polyester wool blend suit still makes for an acceptable choice. It doesn’t tend to wrinkle, but unfortunately the fabric doesn’t breathe very well. On the negative side, polyester blended suits tend to shine a little more and can make garments look cheap.


If you do opt for a polyester suit, make sure that it’s only worn during the spring and fall to avoid subjecting it to extreme temperatures. Try and opt for wool blends for increased quality and wearability for more formal atmospheres and office wear. This fabric suits most bodies types.

Linen

Linen suits are super lightweight and help you to remain cool as the temperatures rise. The fabric is extremely breathable and tends to be far more porous, in comparison to conventional wool. Unfortunately, linen tends to wrinkle easily, stain easily, and needs to be frequently dry cleaned in order to maintain the fresh, crisp look of the fabric and the overall suit. It also tends to lose its shape very quickly. Linen suits should only be worn in the summer and are best suited for casual events. They can, however, be worn to work, but just be aware of color choice and style. If your office is very formal, it’s best to leave the linen suit for off-hours.

Choosing a suit color

9 Suit Colors For A Man’s Wardrobe | Men’s Suits & Color | Which Suit Colors To Buy In Priority Order

A Quality Suit is Often Expensive.
Most Men Need More Than One Suit.
Most Men Have Limited Funds.
How to solve the dilemma?

Determine which suits to buy first.

Specifically, in which order to buy your suits based off color when you’re building a wardrobe?

An important question to answer as we want to maximize your spending power – the worse thing when buying suits is to purchase one you love but can rarely wear as it’s not versatile or appropriate for situations.

When it comes to suits and colors, some suit colors are simply more useful and versatile compared to others.

I am going to rank suit colors starting with the most useful and versatile so that it is easier for the man on a budget to prioritize. The last colors mentioned would be nice to have for special occasions but are not necessary.


Without further ado, let’s jump into it!

1.  Navy Blue Suit

The number 1 and 2 rankings of suit color in this list may be interchangeable.
However, navy blue edges out charcoal grey by a little as throughout the United States, navy blue is considered the de facto color.

All stores specializing in men’s suits will carry a navy-colored one.

Navy suits are ideal for the man who wants to fit in. He wants to be recognized for the effort that he puts in and not necessarily what he puts on.

Another advantage to a navy suit is that if a gentleman wants to get it customized he can include a few fashion forward details because the color is so simple and straightforward.



2.  Charcoal Grey Suit

A charcoal grey suit is just about as versatile as navy.

The one advantage that it has over the former is that it is more idea for the younger man as it can add a little more age to him.

Navy suits can make a young man look even younger while charcoal grey does not have that same effect.

Charcoal grey is extremely easy to match. As that charcoal is firmly on the grayscale (absent of color – a neutral) it goes well with a wide range of colors allowing a man to be more adventurous with the shirts and ties that he pairs this suit with.

When it comes to formality – this is adequate for work, church, weddings, funerals, or meeting the president.



3.  Cambridge/ Medium Grey

There are many shades of grey which means that there is a marked difference between charcoal grey and medium grey.

A medium grey suit will be a little lighter compared to charcoal.

In terms of versatility it is still about equal to Cambridge grey.

However it is not as formal as charcoal grey and navy blue although very few people and places will be able to tell the difference.

Having the three suits mentioned above will already make for an extremely versatile wardrobe, especially if each suit had slight differences in the details that go into them.



4.  Light Grey Men’s Suit

A light grey suit is distinctively lighter compared to its other grey brethren.

This suit works well for spring, summer and fall dressing.

The light grey suit is more casual. It is ideal to invest in one once a man has all of the “must-haves” in his wardrobe.

This shade is a great way to break up the monotony of wearing the more usual shades.

The lighter the shade the easier it is to introduce pattern-such as checks or herringbone-into the suit as the patterns are easily more visible.


5.  Black Men’s Suit

The black suit only gets 5th place because compared to the ones previously mentioned it is not as versatile.

Black does not work for every skin type. A black suit works well for a man with a darker complexion and dark hair.

A black suit does not look flattering on a man with lighter complexion and light hair- such as a redhead as it can easily wash him out.

Black suits are limited in their versatility due to the stark contrast with anything else you are wearing.

A black suit is useful for the most formal of occasions such as a black tie event.

If you’re going to an event which requires a tuxedo or a black-tie dress code make sure that your suit is truly black. A black suit is also appropriate for funerals.


6.  Dark Brown Men’s Suit

A dark brown suit can work if a man has dark hair and a darker complexion.

It can work for some blonds, redheads and for men with ruddier complexions.

A dark brown suit can be effective in adding a little bit of color.

However those who choose to wear it should exert caution as it is clearly not a formal suit.

Never wear a dark brown suit to a formal event or to a place where business dressing is taken very seriously (world cities such as New York and London).


7.  Tan/ Khaki

A tan suit falls under the category of a brown suit as they fall within the same color family.

However – for this article I separate them as for summer wear they are more at home in warmer weather and could easily surplant the brown suit in this list due to their versatility assuming you have the weather and complexion to pull it off.

Like the light gray suit a khaki one can spice up the wardrobe especially for the man who constantly wears suits to work.

They are are a solid choice for low contrast men as the lack of color won’t overpower neutral features and allow you to wear pastels to more effect.


8.  True Blue Men’s Suits

Compared to navy, a true blue suit can be harder to find.

The jacket to the left is an example – please note it is being worn as a sport jacket hence the non-matching trousers.

Public personalities & politicians such as Prince William, Prince Harry and Vladimir Putin have popularized the hue and it is actually a good color to wear.

A true blue suit is more popular in Europe and parts of Asia. However it doesn’t score very high for North American based gentlemen because it is simply difficult to find and less formal than Navy.

A man may have to consider getting a custom suit made if he wants a true blue one. A great option if you own close to a dozen suits and want something for weekend or events a formal color isn’t required.


9.  White Men’s Suits

 The final suit color is white.

Unless you’re a major personality such as Tom Wolfe– who made the white suit his signature look – the white suit will more often appear as an oddity.

Wearing a white suit draws attention to oneself. Therefore it can be ideal for events like white parties, or when you have to make a major presentation and really command everyone’s attention.

However a white suit is not really a necessity and men should not prioritize having it as part of their collection.

All About Suits

Without a doubt the suit is the one item in a man’s wardrobe that reflects a man’s style.

Every man should have at least one suit that is both classically stylish and fit him perfectly.

A good suit makes a man appear trimmer, taller and stronger.

Who doesn’t want that!

A significant part of what makes a suit look good on a man is the construction and appearance of the suit jacket.


Shopping for a suit jacket can be a tricky proposition for most men. Often the question is not where you buy one but rather what to look for in a men’s suit jacket?

To help you out – I have listed ten details about the finer aspects of a suit jacket and what you need to know when shopping for one.

1.  Single vs. Double Breasted Suit Jackets – What’s the Difference?

A single breasted jacket has two halves that button together at the front. This is the more classic style and is widely available and used.

The number of buttons on a single breast jacket varies between one to four. Standard single breast jacket styles have two or three buttons with a notch lapel.



A double breasted jacket is more formal than a single breasted jacket. These jackets feature four, six or eight buttons on the front with six as a standard. Peak lapels are a defining feature of these jackets and help to accentuate the shoulders.

A double breasted jacket has extra fabric that folds over from left to right. The shortage of cloth during the World Wars and the popularity of single breasted jackets with returning war veterans made double breasted suits a rarity.

If you see one in a store – take that as a good sign.



2.  Suit Jacket Buttons

The choice is between one, two or three buttons on the front. The preferred choice is two buttons on a suit jacket for most men.

The one-button single-breasted suit jacket: Generally used on a tuxedo. These jackets are suited to lean men and worn for black tie events. They are not versatile.
The two-button single-breasted suit jacket: Is one of the most classic looks in men’s fashion. This style of suit looks good on all body types.
The cut of the suit makes just about every man’s frame look longer. Two-button suits are great for both social and business events.
The three-button single-breasted suit jacket: Because of the arrangement of the buttons – three button suit jackets suit taller men.
Men who like to wear waistcoats will also likely prefer the look of a three-button suit. These are suitable for formal occasions.

A word on the rules of buttoning a single breasted jacket:

One button: Always closed except when sitting.
Two buttons: Use the top one and leave the second button undone.
Three buttons: Button the center and top ones and leave the third button undone.
Never button the bottom button of a suit jacket.


3.  Sack vs. Structured vs. Fitted Silhouettes

The term silhouette here refers to the shape or cut of a suit jacket.

The shape of a garment sets the tone of your appearance. There are three basic silhouettes on a suit jacket:

Sack or Brooks Brothers Suit Jacket:  As the name suggests, it is a shapeless jacket with narrow shoulders. The jacket hangs on the body – presenting a classic shape for anyone wanting to blend into the crowd as it hides the shape of the wearer.
Structured Silhouette Suit Jacket: Influenced by the military uniform – this is the most formal silhouette for a suit jacket. The shoulders are padded and the waist is trim giving the wearer an almost hour glass appearance.
Fitted Silhouette Suit Jacket: This silhouette suits men who are in shape. It presents a tailored fit. With minimal padding, the posture is enhanced by the use of high armholes.




4.  Soft vs. Roped vs. Structured Suit Jacket Shoulders

If the shoulders don’t fit – the jacket cannot be altered to fit you.

It is the first detail you need to pay attention to when shopping for a suit jacket.

The construction of the shoulder should complement the build of the body. Sloping shoulders may need padding to lift the area.
A man with narrow shoulders and extra weight around the midsection requires a slightly extended horizontal shoulder area. A body with a strong V shape can skip strong shoulders in a suit jacket in favor of more balance to the overall appearance.

A good shoulder construction  does not sag over the shoulder line and is big enough to allow unrestricted movements of the arms.

The Italians prefer a soft, unstructured shoulder. The English fancy a bit of looping in the shoulders, creating a soft bump on the shoulder line.

5.  Notch vs. Peak vs. Shawl Suit Lapels

Lapels should always be a reflection of the jacket’s proportions. A wide lapel on a suit jacket suits a well-proportioned man. The same lapel on a smaller man will dwarf his frame.

The lapel should extend to just about the mid-point between the collar and the shoulders.



There are three common types of lapels:

Notch Lapel: The top of the lapel and the bottom of the collar meets in a notch. This is the most common type of lapel and suits a single breasted jacket.
Peak Lapel: Has strong edges pointed towards the shoulders. A peak lapel is more formal and always found on double breasted jackets.
Shawl Lapel: The collar has a continuous curve without a break like the peak or notch lape. These are seen only on tuxedos and worn at exclusive events like a black-tie night.


6. Suit Jacket Pocket Types

A standard feature of a suit jacket is a pocket on the left side of the chest.  This is called the jacket breast pocket. You’ll notice in some of my videos – my suit jacket has a pocket on the right. Any guesses why?

The flaps on the pockets should be consistent with the size of the lapels – neither too large nor too small.

The jetted pocket is more dressy, which explains why it is traditionally found on the tuxedo.
The flap pocket will add a touch of thickness on the hip, while the slit pocket gives a slimmer look.
Angled pockets are sportier and should always have a flap.
A ticket pocket was originally used to hold train tickets.
A patch pocket is suitable for a sports jackets but not for a formal suit.


7.  Suit Jacket Sleeve Buttons

Whether they are are functional or not, a suit jacket will have buttons on the sleeve.

Four buttons are standard for a suit jacket sleeve while a sports jacket usually has only two. For a two-button suit – I prefer either two or four buttons on the sleeve. For a three-button suit jacket – I would go with three buttons on the sleeve.



The buttons on a suit jacket sleeve should be set closely together. Almost kissing each other. A suit jacket with sleeve buttons that come undone used to be a sign of superior quality.

This is no longer a defining feature as mass-produced suit makers are copying this design detail in an attempt to present their goods in a favorable light.



8. Unlined vs. Half-lined vs. Fully-lined Suit Jacket Linings

A natural fiber lining on the inside of a suit jacket is a sign of quality.

Bemberg is a natural form of rayon made from cotton linter.  It’s considered the king of linings as it’s durable, relatively inexpensive, breathable, and easy to find.

Silk is a luxury fabric and therefore expensive. Although sought after for suits, especially custom, I don’t recommend it is difficult to clean and impossible to fix if torn (you need to replace it).  It is breathable though, so an option for hot weather.

Polyester or oil based rayon linings are common in low-cost and mass manufactured jackets – avoid them as they are the least breathable.

The inner jacket lining is usually color-coordinated with the suit fabric.  If you decide to go with a contrasting color, it makes the suit more casual (although you can keep it buttoned and no one will know). A lining provides a suit jacket with durability and helps to maintain its line.

An unlined suit jacket is bound to cost more than a suit that is completely lined.  Why?  Labor and skill – unlined jackets are rare and the artist building the coat will need to ensure his inner stitching is beautiful as the suit jacket’s owner will be able to see it.

Advantages Vs Disadvantages Of Each Lining Style

Unlined – Preferred in hot climates, unlined jackets are light and breathable. Keep in mind that summer jackets in light fabrics are bound to cost more than lined jacket.

Fully Lined – Lining adds weight to a jacket. It also adds protection to the inside of the suit jacket. Business suits need to be lined. However, the extra layer of cloth holds the heat in these jackets – not the best choice for summer and hot weather.

Half Lined – The middle ground for suit jacket lining is a partial lining that protects the canvas of the suit without adding much weight. Partially lined jackets have a softer shape than fully lined jackets. As with unlined jackets, partially lined jackets also cost more than suits with regular full lining.



9.  Ventless vs. Single vs. Double Suit Jacket Vents

Suit jackets may or may not have a vent or slit in the lower back portion. The three options for vents in a suit jacket are:

No Vent (ventless) – Preferred by Italians, this style is more fitted. The downside is when you put your hands in your pockets or sit down – the jacket creases and bunches up in the back.
Single Vent – I am not a fan of the single vent suit jacket for men. It exposes their backside when they place their hands in the trouser pockets. The least expensive option – it gives the wearer a boxy appearance.
Double or Two-Sided Vent – Allows for more fluid movement hands. It gives the wearer added shape. The flap comes up when you sit or put your hands in your pockets – preventing the jacket from creasing and keeps the backside covered.


10 Suit Jacket LAPEL Button-hole

The one working button-hole worth having is on the lapel.

The button-hole on the lapel was originally designed to close the suit jacket and button it up. Now – it has found a more aesthetic purpose in sporting a boutonniere.

The boutonniere is worn on the left lapel of the suit jacket. It should be worn in the lapel’s button-hole, an opening of about 1-1.5 inch.

Only higher-end suits have a lapel button-hole that is functional; with a hand-sewn lining to support the flower and a latch on the reverse side of the lapel to secure the stem of the flower.

Avoid pinning the stem on to your suit jacket unless it has been prepared by a florist to be attached to the lapel.

A special occasion is not required to sport a flower on your suit. The only caveat is that wearing one will attract attention. Apart from funerals and solemn occasions – wearing a flower is going to be a conversation starter.

Pictured on the right is a carnation fixed on the lapel buttonhole. You could also wear a red rose boutonniere to send a message of passion and love.

Some other flower choices are gardenia, lily of the valley, sweet william, orchids, hyacinths, daisies, and lilacs.

The flower you choose should be appropriate for the occasion – red blooms or simple white for formal occasions. For less formal occasions – exotic and more colorful flowers are fine.

Coordinate the boutonniere with the clothing you are wearing. A simple white pocket square is always a safe bet.

How you wear your suit jacket is a matter of your personal style taste and your budget. You can carry off a reasonably well constructed suit if you pay attention to the details. Get them right and you will be setting a high sartorial standard.

This is the one item in your wardrobe that requires quality and attention to the details.